Just looked up these "radius head" tie wraps......definitely not what was on my ProXS oil lines that I cut off a couple days ago when I changed the oil tank and filter.....but I ordered some anyway just to have them for next time.
Just looked up these "radius head" tie wraps......definitely not what was on my ProXS oil lines that I cut off a couple days ago when I changed the oil tank and filter.....but I ordered some anyway just to have them for next time.
Follow up to the original post. Cleaned the tank, screen on pick up, new oil filter, put engine in break in mode ( watched engine mounted tank drop about an inch).
fired boat up and tried bleeding the tank by loosening the cap but it is still not filling the tank. The steps I did were necessary based on the evidence but I am running out of ideas.
I am gonna check the continuity on the float tomorrow and after that I am stumped.
Anyone got any other ideas? I am pretty sure I don’t have a leaking hose and the o rings looked good.
Thanks!!
Should not have put the motor in "break-in-mode".
The Float has nothing to do with the engine mounted tank not filling.
Is pressure building up in the remote oil tank?
Did you test for pressure leaks with Kids soapy bubbles?
Savage,
Correct me if I am wrong but the mercury book said to reprime the system anytime the system has been opened.
The proper way to re-prime the system is to run a "Oil Pump Prime Sequence"Originally Posted by 65Stang
That is what I did per the book. Moved shift lever forward to neutral till pump kicked on(while spinning prop). I am going to recheck for air leaks today and if that doesn’t work it’s off to the shop.
I have read it can take quite a while to fill the engine tank..I left it running for approximately 10 minutes but may let it run a little longer today. Any tips are welcomed..��
The Mercury Service Manual does NOT inform you to do that for an Oil Pump Prime. That is a "Field Break-in Reset Procedure". By doing that you cleared all Fault History, all Run History, reset a Smart Breakin Clock that only counts down above 3500 RPM's, under heavy load (minimum 2 hrs under these conditions), and delivers DOUBLE oil to the engine until that clock is expired. 2-3 gallons of Oil and very likely a set of spark plugs are the immediate cost... carbon and oil residue are the long-term costs.
You need to remove the pressure line from the crankcase pressure check valve, and utilizing either a gearcase (hand-pump) pressure tester, OR a bicycle pump, apply 6 to 8 psi to the line and make sure it HOLDS pressure. If it does, you either have blockage on the oil side, the crankcase pressure check valve isn't working properly, or you have a reed problem on that cylinder.
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Thanks for the info Don,
I guess lesson learned. I took the feed line off of the remote tank and it had a bunch of pressure. Obviously I have reached the end of my capabilities so I am gonna take it to a shop.
I bought fuel injection hose clamps at the auto parts store and replaced all zip ties in the oil and fuel system. When I replaced my engine mounted oil tank this year, I could not get it to purge until I replaced those clamps. Afterwards, it took about 45 seconds to purge that last 3/4” of air from the tank. $20-$30 worth of clamps makes it headache free.
Hello it’s me again… soonest I can get the boat in the shop is late June so I am gonna try and figure it out myself. More to follow I am sure. Thanks for all of the replies
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