Constant 13.8 volts

[Roddy]

Why wouldn’t one of the voltage converts like used to
put a radio on a golf cart work to provide a constant 13.8 volts
for your live scope. They take 8-40 volts and output a constant 13.8 volts.

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-13-...RoCPvQQAvD_BwE
i just happen to have one laying around.

[wiget10]

16v lithiums from powerhouse

[I fish 4 Bass]

I always have 14.4. Monster Marine bandit. On the Garmin. 26 on the box.

[21XDC]

10 Amps per hr lost...

[Bill Reynolds]

I have done this a couple times, once for a Crappie guide and another time for a friend with a small river boat. In both cases there were space constraints and we did it to prevent adding another battery.
Both instances worked as expected.
I was forewarned that many of these buck/boost transformers have a ripple in the voltage output. The ripple is there in varying degrees based on the quality of the converter but it is unclear how this affects the connected device.
we have not observed any negative affects on the units and the one on the Guide boat is used several hours almost every day.

[Roddy]

Is the 10 amp limit a problem?

[skeeterator]

I always have 14.4. Monster Marine bandit. On the Garmin. 26 on the box.

Same here

[CastingCall]

Is the 10 amp limit a problem?

Shouldn't be, depending on how much equipment you want to hook up to it.
Here's a test showing 4 sonar/Livescope units and a GLS10 all running simultaneously (pretty extreme example for the casual angler), pulling just shy of 9 amps. You can skip to about 7:40 for a recap.

If you needed more amperage cushion, they do sell similar converters that handle 30A output for about the same money.

[Thamelau]

10 Amps per hr lost...

That doesn't seem right. It has a 10A capacity, but your electronics will only draw what they need. If you are drawing the full 10A capacity, at 95% efficiency (minimum efficiency stated), then you will only lose out on .5A.

That being said, if you are already drawing your batteries low throughout the day, this will make it worse because it will force your system to keep the watts up, instead of slowly lowering the power drawn on your batteries (I believe that is how this would work). If your issue is simply power loss through wiring issues, then this could account for that. Seems like a cool idea in my mind.

[goodman_fishing]

Shouldn't be a problem. I have a 12>24v step up that I run to my black box. Looks similar

[PJ-Rohlf]

Only reason I can see for that is if you wanted to run a deep cycle 24v or 36v battery for electronics. Have higher capacity in terms of wH.

Only other time I have seen these for marine is from Power House Lithium but that is to protect Lowrance units from voltage spikes.

[78Staff]

Its an interesting concept, and as a guy running dual 60ah 36v TM batteries I have oodles of amp hours to spare, for sure. But, I think noise would be the major issue, which is the last thing you want from a power supply for imaging. But to power an radio - sure why not.

[chad202]

I read where Rick Pierce was running a Bandit off his 36V connections to power his electronics on his personal boat. It's 36V inlet with one 14V outlet for graphs and one 24V outlet for livescope box.

[ajw18]

Its an interesting concept, and as a guy running dual 60ah 36v TM batteries I have oodles of amp hours to spare, for sure. But, I think noise would be the major issue, which is the last thing you want from a power supply for imaging. But to power a radio - sure why not.

I got two of the same 36v 60ah batteries you got and am thinking the same thing. Plenty of power to spare; perhaps I could take some load off my 12v AGM. I was going to get a Bandit converter for my electronics and use the agm simply as cranking and house (pumps, lights, etc.). Instead of using the troller motor wiring (which SEEMS like a bad idea) I was going to put the Bandit in the battery compartment, pull directly off the battery with two cables, and hook the existed dedicated wiring for my electronics to the converter.

But, I needed a new charger and was soon due for a new cranking battery so I decided to go all in with lithium and got a 12v 160ah cranked too. Now I feel like I’m filthy AH rich but still stuck on the idea of at least having the option of using some of the excess 36v power for some of the 12v demand.

Does anyone know the difference (other than having both 24 and 12 volt legs) between the monster marine bandit and a standard buck converter like the OP linked? I’m now leaning toward getting a 36v to 12v converter and a three way perko switch and using it for house loads with the ability to switch it to my cranker and running the graphs off the cranking battery.

[ajw18]

I read where Rick Pierce was running a Bandit off his 36V connections to power his electronics on his personal boat. It's 36V inlet with one 14V outlet for graphs and one 24V outlet for livescope box.

Do you remember where you read that? I’d be interested to see what he said. The man knows B.A.S.S. boats.

[Rick H]

Dirty power

[Thamelau]

I do wonder if this would help clean up the power from the trolling system so that you would not get interference running graphs from the trolling motor batteries.

[78Staff]

Do you remember where you read that? I’d be interested to see what he said. The man knows B.A.S.S. boats.

I think he talked about it in his opens boat tour on YT a month or two ago...

[ajw18]

Thanks. I wonder which converter exactly he’s using. Maybe we’ll get an update.

[Transom]

I would be weary of going from clean power from a battery to noisy power from a switcher.