Ionic 50ah Trolling Motor Batteries

[erickennedy1]

I have 3 of the 50ah Ionic lithium batteries for my Ultrex. Yesterday on the lake my day was cut short because one of the batteries was out, not showing up on the app at all. The other two batteries were over 60%.

Got back home and "woke up" the battery and now it is charging like normal. Is it normal for one battery to have drained down so far like that? I didn't check the battery life before I left, and I hadn't taken the boat out in a couple weeks before this trip. I know I fully charged them before I had put it away last, and haven't had any similar issues before with batteries draining from sitting there not in use.

This battery that died is also the one connected to the perko switch that jumps my main cranking battery, so that is the only thing I could think of as to why this one could've drained down? But the perko switch was on "off" the whole time while stored in between trips as always.

Any insight would be helpful, thank you!

[fishnfireman]

Mine did the same thing once. Turned out to be a charger issue with that one bank.

[blkfalc4]

You shouldn't have a 50Ah connected for a jumper. I personally don't like the common grounds either, some have issues with that.
I just keep a jump-pac in the boat in case of emergency.

[yam911]

You shouldn't have a 50Ah connected for a jumper. I personally don't like the common grounds either, some have issues with that.
I just keep a jump-pac in the boat in case of emergency.

Why not?

[blkfalc4]

Why not?

To turn over the outboard? I would think the BMS isn't going to like it.

Then there's the common ground. Can cause inadvertent ground loops.

[erickennedy1]

You shouldn't have a 50Ah connected for a jumper. I personally don't like the common grounds either, some have issues with that.
I just keep a jump-pac in the boat in case of emergency.

From what I've read, having the 50ah Ionic as a jumper for my 125ah ionic shouldn't be an issue. I've had to use it before as a jumper when I still had a 31 AGM as my cranking battery and worked fine.

[MichAngler]

The odds of you needing a jump with a 125 as your cranking battery are next to none

The jump switch seems to be the only difference in your scenario and are notorious for causing issues for people

most times it turns out it is not connected correctly and even when it is the fact that you have now tied the grounds together can cause strange issues like interference on your graphs

if you must have it make sure it is connected to the one battery that has the main ground for your trolling motor

If it happens again I would pull the jump switch if it continues swap that battery with one of the other 50's and see if that battery continues to have an issue or if the charger bank is the problem

I keep a small set of jumper cables in the boat just in case and they have never been used

NOTE: I have the same batteries as you 3 50's for the TM and a 125 cranking/house all ionics

[erickennedy1]

The odds of you needing a jump with a 125 as your cranking battery are next to none

The jump switch seems to be the only difference in your scenario and are notorious for causing issues for people

most times it turns out it is not connected correctly and even when it is the fact that you have now tied the grounds together can cause strange issues like interference on your graphs

if you must have it make sure it is connected to the one battery that has the main ground for your trolling motor

If it happens again I would pull the jump switch if it continues swap that battery with one of the other 50's and see if that battery continues to have an issue or if the charger bank is the problem

I keep a small set of jumper cables in the boat just in case and they have never been used

NOTE: I have the same batteries as you 3 50's for the TM and a 125 cranking/house all ionics

I agree, after having the 125 I don't think I'll ever need to use the jump option on my perko switch. Lowest I've had the 125 down to at the end of the day was 80%.

I know the switch is connected correctly because I've had to use it before when I had all AGM batteries.

I'll see what happens next time I go out and monitor the battery life more closely. Since I've had the lithiums it's been nice to not really have to worry about the batteries.

[JohnM64]

I'm finding you can exhaust a 125 AH Ionic pretty easily when fishing, running livewells and electronics. Consider:

(2) Recirc Pumps @ 3 A for 6 hours = 36 AH (Full time Summer)
(2) GLS 10 w/32 & 34 for 6 hours = 9 AH
(1) 12" Garmin for 6 hours = 18 AH
(1) 10" Helix for 6 Hours = 12 AH
(1) 12" Helix for 6 hours = 18 AH
(1) 9" Garmin for 6 hours = 6 AH

That's 99 AH in 6 hours or 16.5 Amp/hour, not including frequent power poles and any parasitic load from leaving your lights on. In 7 hours, you've used 115.5, and after 8 its fully exhausted.

I may fish 5, 6 or 7 hours with little if any running of the outboard, sometimes longer. Last tourney the 125 was down to 30%, after basically being poled down all day and then a 20 mile run back to weigh in (V-8 Pro XS). Other days I may come in at 90% when I'm moving around all day.

If I know I'm going to be locked down somewhere and fishing for hours, I start shutting off graphs and keep an eye on voltage displayed on the remaining graph(s). There is enough concern I'm looking at reserve options.

[MichAngler]

I'm finding you can exhaust a 125 AH Ionic pretty easily when fishing, running livewells and electronics. Consider:

(2) Recirc Pumps @ 3 A for 6 hours = 36 AH (Full time Summer)
(2) GLS 10 w/32 & 34 for 6 hours = 9 AH
(1) 12" Garmin for 6 hours = 18 AH
(1) 10" Helix for 6 Hours = 12 AH
(1) 12" Helix for 6 hours = 18 AH
(1) 9" Garmin for 6 hours = 6 AH

That's 99 AH in 6 hours or 16.5 Amp/hour, not including frequent power poles and any parasitic load from leaving your lights on. In 7 hours, you've used 115.5, and after 8 its fully exhausted.

I may fish 5, 6 or 7 hours with little if any running of the outboard, sometimes longer. Last tourney the 125 was down to 30%, after basically being poled down all day and then a 20 mile run back to weigh in (V-8 Pro XS). Other days I may come in at 90% when I'm moving around all day.

If I know I'm going to be locked down somewhere and fishing for hours, I start shutting off graphs and keep an eye on voltage displayed on the remaining graph(s). There is enough concern I'm looking at reserve options.

On paper I’m sure that looks right but I can attest that real world usage a 125 will last all day and not use 50% of the charge

I have two Gen 1 Solex’s (12” & 10”) these are the power hungry monsters then I have two Garmin (10” & 7”) plus the GLS10 black box and livescope

I can fish 8 plus hours fun fishing for three days before I need to charge it
OR
I can fish 2 tournament days with livewell pumps running all day before I need to charge it

This isn’t on paper this is actual use over three years now

[DQM]

For the original poster, what charger do you use to charge the batteries?

And using an Ionic 50ah to jump the starting battery will work fine. The issue is the BMS in it does not handle the potentially high output from your alternator and can shut down. The Ionic 100ah and 125ah have their starting BMS which manages the higher output required.

[JohnM64]

On paper I’m sure that looks right but I can attest that real world usage a 125 will last all day and not use 50% of the charge

I have two Gen 1 Solex’s (12” & 10”) these are the power hungry monsters then I have two Garmin (10” & 7”) plus the GLS10 black box and livescope

I can fish 8 plus hours fun fishing for three days before I need to charge it
OR
I can fish 2 tournament days with livewell pumps running all day before I need to charge it

This isn’t on paper this is actual use over three years now

Mathematics are entirely definitive when it comes to understanding electric. Its how things work.

Any actual or real world use data will at best achieve what the math says it will do, but often less due to unfactored voltage loss and other erosion in the circuit.

Assume: (2) 12 vDC 3A Livewell pumps run all day for (2) days. Using 10 hours of pump run time per day (20 hours), and at 6 amps/hour for the 2 pumps, this load will use 120 AH, leaving 4% reserve.

Proven: A 125 AH may run the 2 pumps for two days, but nothing else, in a perfect circuit.

The variable in this equation, and also for real world experiences, is the frequency and duration of the discharge/recharge the 125 AH (i.e. outboard run time).

My Pro XS V-8 puts out 20 Amps at idle, and my max draw is 16.5 amps or more. If I ran to a spot at 1st light, boated a quick limit, and spent the rest of the day graphing for tomorrow, I'd come in at 100% charge.

Conversely, if I have to work hard all day for 5 bites in one or two areas, I'm coming in at 30% or lower.

IMO, the lithiums represent huge improvement in battery technology. However, like anything else, understanding what you're working with helps prevent surprises.

[MichAngler]

Mathematics are entirely definitive when it comes to understanding electric. Its how things work.

Any actual or real world use data will at best achieve what the math says it will do, but often less due to unfactored voltage loss and other erosion in the circuit.

Assume: (2) 12 vDC 3A Livewell pumps run all day for (2) days. Using 10 hours of pump run time per day (20 hours), and at 6 amps/hour for the 2 pumps, this load will use 120 AH, leaving 4% reserve.

Proven: A 125 AH may run the 2 pumps for two days, but nothing else, in a perfect circuit.

The variable in this equation, and also for real world experiences, is the frequency and duration of the discharge/recharge the 125 AH (i.e. outboard run time).

My Pro XS V-8 puts out 20 Amps at idle, and my max draw is 16.5 amps or more. If I ran to a spot at 1st light, boated a quick limit, and spent the rest of the day graphing for tomorrow, I'd come in at 100% charge.

Conversely, if I have to work hard all day for 5 bites in one or two areas, I'm coming in at 30% or lower.

IMO, the lithiums represent huge improvement in battery technology. However, like anything else, understanding what you're working with helps prevent surprises.

You can sell it anyway you want I know what I can get out of my 125 I’ve had mine for three years so it’s no fluke I do this all the time

Now graph manufacturers will state an amp draw but that’s not to say it draws that continuously all day most only draw that at start up and when I say I run the pumps all day that’s on auto so they aren’t on continuously either

My last trip out was 6-1/2 hours (no pumps) and I wasn’t on the big motor but once to the second spot and once to get back and I have a 06 HPDI 250 that doesn’t put out much in extra amps and I used 27% so unless mine is filled with fairy dust your math is missing something

[SteezMacQueen]

Your math is correct, your values are incorrect. You are assuming every electronic device in your system is pulling max current. The current you are using for your equations is the fuse ratings of the circuits. The fuses protect the wiring, not the device. Most of the electronic devices you are mentioning consume far less than their max when being used normally.


I have an Ionic powered boat. I can turn on EVERY device in my boat. 6 pumps, three graphs, led lighting, Sonic hub stereo, active target, and hit the horn. One of the cool things about the Ionic Bluetooth app is I can monitor in real time the EXACT current draw in amperes at any given time. The most current drawn with all of these devices running all at once is 19 amps. Now….during normal use, the led light will not be on for more than a few minutes at earliest part of the day. Yeh…I MIGHT run the radio at a very low volume all day. The graphs are on all day, the pumps are hardly ever all on at the same time. The livewell pumps are on timers.

the real world usage isn’t an exact science like the math equation.

[JohnM64]

Your math is correct, your values are incorrect. You are assuming every electronic device in your system is pulling max current. The current you are using for your equations is the fuse ratings of the circuits. The fuses protect the wiring, not the device. Most of the electronic devices you are mentioning consume far less than their max when being used normally.


I have an Ionic powered boat. I can turn on EVERY device in my boat. 6 pumps, three graphs, led lighting, Sonic hub stereo, active target, and hit the horn. One of the cool things about the Ionic Bluetooth app is I can monitor in real time the EXACT current draw in amperes at any given time. The most current drawn with all of these devices running all at once is 19 amps. Now….during normal use, the led light will not be on for more than a few minutes at earliest part of the day. Yeh…I MIGHT run the radio at a very low volume all day. The graphs are on all day, the pumps are hardly ever all on at the same time. The livewell pumps are on timers.

the real world usage isn’t an exact science like the math equation.

I think you may have answered the question on engineering principles versus real world confusion and hyperbole. Accounting for max current draw of all components in designing a system is a basic engineering premise. If you get away with less energy demand, perhaps from higher source voltage, it will generally only perform better.

It is indicated the system above is pulling 19 amps - capable of fully exhausting the 125 AH in just over 6 1/2 hours. Understood 19 amps load is not continuous, but the concern over battery discharge and reserve is clearly evidenced by monitoring of energy use, which is the original intent of the post. The 125 AH Ionic is a good battery, but you can discharge it easier that most think.

[JohnM64]

You can sell it anyway you want I know what I can get out of my 125 I’ve had mine for three years so it’s no fluke I do this all the time

Now graph manufacturers will state an amp draw but that’s not to say it draws that continuously all day most only draw that at start up and when I say I run the pumps all day that’s on auto so they aren’t on continuously either

My last trip out was 6-1/2 hours (no pumps) and I wasn’t on the big motor but once to the second spot and once to get back and I have a 06 HPDI 250 that doesn’t put out much in extra amps and I used 27% so unless mine is filled with fairy dust your math is missing something

Agreed what you are saying makes sense - short day, no motor loads, partial recharge on water. On the hill with 73 % remaining.

Brush up on the algebra and you can prove that equation pretty easily. No fairy dust required.

[erickennedy1]

For the original poster, what charger do you use to charge the batteries?

And using an Ionic 50ah to jump the starting battery will work fine. The issue is the BMS in it does not handle the potentially high output from your alternator and can shut down. The Ionic 100ah and 125ah have their starting BMS which manages the higher output required.

I am using the dual pro ps4 that came in my 2019 ranger.

[Mahomee]

Yes one of my 50 ah relions died and shorted out, it was the one I had used to jump a few times also. I only used it to jump my battery back on and then turned that switch back off and my start battery always worked to start the motor.

I was using a single charge on run to charge the 3 50ah. so the one i used to jump once in a while NEVER got re balanced with the others after 5 years that one had a issue. the solution is once or twice a year to charge each on individually or add in a 3x5 charger which is what i did.