2013 Cougar Locator Wiring?

[Macsimus]

I've lost power to my console locator. The bow locator is working.

Does anyone know how the power cords for these are wired? Are they wired to a block at the console? Or to the block on the inside of the transom? The power cord disappears into the access hole on the right side under the console with a bundle of wires with only maybe 1.5' visible.

Are inline fuses used and if so, where would I find them?

Thanks for any help. My 70 year old body doesn't do well any more contorting under consoles or standing on it's head over the bilge.

[lpugh]

What are you calling a Locator?

[apdriver]

Usually the factory (Hummingbird, Lowrance, etc.) power cords aren’t too long. Try pulling it out of the access hole. Should be connected there with a butt connector. Also the unit might have gone out. Make sure you don’t have voltage at the unit before you start chasing wires. Ultimately the power for that unit has to start at the battery so if they ran a separate harness for your graphs it starts there or possibly from the block on the transom. Might have grabbed twelve volts from another circuit right there at the console though.

[Macsimus]

What are you calling a Locator?

Console Lowrance HDS8

Usually the factory (Hummingbird, Lowrance, etc.) power cords aren’t too long. Try pulling it out of the access hole. Should be connected there with a butt connector. Also the unit might have gone out. Make sure you don’t have voltage at the unit before you start chasing wires. Ultimately the power for that unit has to start at the battery so if they ran a separate harness for your graphs it starts there or possibly from the block on the transom. Might have grabbed twelve volts from another circuit right there at the console though.

I did take the console unit and plug it into the power cord at the bow and it powered up. The power cord passes directly into the access hole in the gunnel under the console. I'll see if I can pull it out at all.

I've learned since my original post that BCB doesn't fuse graphs/locators/etc.

[apdriver]

I've learned since my original post that BCB doesn't fuse graphs/locators/etc.

Thats what I thought. Your issue is probably at a connection point on the positive side or a bad ground. I think as troublesome as the terminal block is on the transom, you might start there. Possible crimp that has lost contact or could be corrosion. Sorta bear to get to as it’s tucked up tight….as it should be.

[Macsimus]

Thats what I thought. Your issue is probably at a connection point on the positive side or a bad ground. I think as troublesome as the terminal block is on the transom, you might start there. Possible crimp that has lost contact or could be corrosion. Sorta bear to get to as it’s tucked up tight….as it should be.

I removed all of the connected wires to the terminal block and cleaned up all connections with a Dremel and a small wire wheel. Two were a bit corroded. But I have to think that if that was the problem, it would effect more than just the console unit, right? My bow locator (HDS7 gen 2), console locator (HDS8 gen 2), the Structure Scan box, and more are all tied into the rocker switch on the starboard side near the gear shift. So I imagine that there's a cluster of wiring inside the right gunnel through the access hole under the console. I've tried to pull it out but it is a "cluster" of wiring and I'm afraid to pull too hard on it for fear of introducing more problems. Interestingly, after tugging on the power cord for the console HDS8, it now powers up. So, I'm thinking it's a connection in all that wiring inside the gunnel. Has anyone dealt with this? Any creative solutions to getting access to that mess? I'm all ears.

[catdude28]

In that 2013 Cougar (like I had) you are correct in that the graphs are tied into the boat’s main harness. This was a couple of years before BCB started offering a separate circuit and harness just for graphs. So it is not an ideal set up. Easiest, and better way, would be to access the power cord from the unit as AP suggested above, cut the two wires, and wire that graph directly to the battery with the appropriate in line fuse (or put in a Blue Seas fuse box and wire both graphs and main harness into it). I know it is not so easy to bend and fish wires anymore as I am a couple of years older than you. I would not mess with that cluster that you refer to. If you really don’t want to run wires to the battery, you could simply draw power from the 12 volt accessory at the dash. It is tied into the boat’s harness also. Be sure to fuse it.

[Bass Cat Boats]

We were the first company to go to a separate standard harness for graphs alone. That was 2015 on the front of this techno curve we are well into now. Anything before that was wired into the existing harness at the factory and there were several methods used by dealers. On a 2013 it’s hard to say what been added after the fact, or by whom.

[Macsimus]

Many thanks for the responses. Catdude28, thanks for the suggestion of wiring it into the accessory! I had resigned myself to running a new power wire to the battery and was really dreading the process of fishing it from the console back. I've read numerous posts over the years regarding how challenging that is on BCBs. The option to wire it in as the accessory is exponentially easier. I was in a mild state of panic as I leave for a highly anticipated annual week long fishing trip this Saturday. Thanks for the save.

[catdude28]

You are welcome Cal. On my 2019 Classic, I used that accessory to provide power when I installed my own lighting for the compartments. I tapped power from that accessory and ran it to an on/off switch which I put under the dash to control the lights. It worked just fine.

[Bass Cat Boats]

Another method is to run more wiring front to rear in the center sump ballast, then tie (buss) bar the front and run backward to the console. With 6 gauge wire done right we would think the voltage drop to be minimal.

BCB

[Macsimus]

Another method is to run more wiring front to rear in the center sump ballast, then tie (buss) bar the front and run backward to the console. With 6 gauge wire done right we would think the voltage drop to be minimal.

BCB

Thank you. I've been contemplating a "freshening up" of my antiquated electronics and that would be a great way to handle the power part of it.

[k2rider18]

Thank you. I've been contemplating a "freshening up" of my antiquated electronics and that would be a great way to handle the power part of it.

There are plenty of companies out there that manufacture their own “dedicated” wiring harnesses. If you’re up to the task, you can build one yourself for significantly less.