At the end of my rope with 96 200 EFI SN - (OG 385015)

[lilred]

This has been going on for years. Start and idles fine. Gets up on plane okay and runs wide open fine. Runs like crap (Seems rich) any where below 4k rpm. Everything has been gone through and checks out good (Stator, packs, coils, voltage regulators, wires plugs, fuel pump in VST good and diaphragm pump, fuel lines all new motor to tank. Fuel (premix) is clean. Injectors have been flow tested, injector harness swapped... The only thing that hasn't been checked individually are the reeds. Can it possibly be the reeds? I changed the ECU also. Brocato said the original had a bad #3 driver from what I recall. I'm down to either reeds or the replacement ECU has the exact same problem. Tempted to locate carb setup. TIA!!!

[silverbullet02]

Have you done the full link n synch, getting tps adjusted and all that? There are some resistance checks you can do to check the temp sensors too. Those are all easier things to check than the reeds before you start tearing it down.

[JOE54]

when you pulled injectors to have them "flow tested'' didnt you inspect reeds ???? modules removed ????? cyl head and air temp must be verified

[leonreno]

Checked for a loose exhaust tuner?

[EuropeanAM]

Also- check fuel pressure throughout the entire run. Watch for any signs of elevated fuel pressure when you come off the throttle to "4K and below" and the engine is running mega rich.

Verify the overflow and the fuel pressure hoses are correctly connected (overflow goes to the nipple with holes in it).

[lilred]

Silverbullet02 I am assuming that the last mechanic who had it did. He is a very well respected in rebuilds and high performance applications. He had some kind of diagnostic tool that pinpoints sensor problems. I don't think that he ran it in the midrange much, if at all though. I've trying to get back with him to run it again, but no luck. He had also mentioned putting a Brucato ECU on it and testing, but he's a one man show and difficult to pin down.

[lilred]

when you pulled injectors to have them "flow tested'' didnt you inspect reeds ???? modules removed ????? cyl head and air temp must be verified

Just a quick visual, but didn't go that far in.

[lilred]

All good ideas and points. I do appreciate the input from everyone. To be continued....

[JOE54]

RED these days i wouldn't assume anything , last year i saw a fresh rebuild by a hotrodder had one cyl wiped down with acid and piston put in and sold , im a one man too i return as many as 30 calls a day just how i roll ........ JOE

[lilred]

So, after years of troubleshooting and 5 "mechanics", I think I've narrowed it down to the ECU's. Yes, plural. I have a replacement from a friends old 200 EFI that blew up or burnt up on him. Anyway, The original was sent to Brucato who stated it had a bad #3 injector driver. I found a mechanic that has a known, fully functional ECU try his and he said all appears good. I will run it and find out for sure this weekend. Question is, do I have Simon' repair one of mine ($800 minimum) or cough up $1800 est. W/taxes for a Brucato on a fishing motor. Hmmm!

[EuropeanAM]

Repair the OEM ECU with new drivers and be done with it.

[lpugh]

^^^^^^^ Plus 1

[lilred]

That's what I needed to hear guys. Just hoping Simon will accept Brucato's diagnosis and not charge another $95.

Thank you

[lilred]

That's what I needed to hear guys. Just hoping Simon will accept Brucato's diagnosis and not charge another $95.

Thank you

[aussiejake]

Checked for a loose exhaust tuner?

Not within the years that had the problem but definitely has the symptoms. Always very rich in the mid range. First thing that should be checked, can save lots of time and money.

[EuropeanAM]

Not within the years that had the problem but definitely has the symptoms. Always very rich in the mid range. First thing that should be checked, can save lots of time and money.

Jake... I've seen plenty of those loose in the can. Can happen with virtually ANY 2.0, 2.4 or 2.5L.

[lilred]

Well, I had another mechanic put a good ECU on it and it seemed to clean up everything. But he idled it down a little too much. He said I could access the idle from the front side between the VST and injector housing with a long skinny flathead so I figured not problem. Sent my ECU to Simon and they changed all FI drivers. Got it back and put it on. It fired up but still wouldn't idle so I began trying to tackle that issue. The only adjustment without changing the timing lingage is a small screw with a teflon lined lock nut but has to be accessed from the side and rear and makes adjustment to the butterflys. I'll look at again tonight. It did seem very responsive when operating with the throttle cable disconnected on a hose. Hoping for an end to this saga. I'll let yall know.

[EuropeanAM]

Look between the VST and Intake (Fuel Management). There's a stop screw that can be accessed as you were told (LONG flathead screwdriver).

[JOE54]

report back

[lilred]

Yep, found it right in front of my nose as you all said. Idle is now set at 800 rpm. It ran too rough at anything below. My tach is original and questionable anyway as you have to tap it occasionally when running. Found a pinhole leak on the idle exhaust boot. I've attempted to patch with electrical tape, covered with liquid tape until I can get another. I'm about to finish my work week and going run it tomorrow. Wish me luck.