Out of travel in jackplate, is it ok to mount engine in lower holes?

[Zwc1192]

I changed to a 10" jack plate from the factory 6" a little while back on my TR20x with a 250 XB. It was toward the end of the season so I didnt run it much afterwards. Spring came around, and I noticed my rig was a smidge slower and turning a little lower RPM than it used to with the 6" JP.

All things being equal(except the jackplate setback), I lost 100-150 RPM. I'm guessing due to the transom angle and the further setback, it made my motor sit lower than it previously did on the 6". After re-measuring my prop to pad, I confirmed my suspicion. It was over 3" and had previously been about 1-7/8" with the 6" plate.

I want to try it higher, but I'm completely tapped on the jackplate. currently at around 2-1/4" prop to pad, but still have plenty of water pressure, almost no rooster tail, and no blowout even in the sharpest turns.


Is there any reason the motor can't be mounted in one of the lower sets of holes on the outboard's transom bracket? It's in either the furthest hole up or the first one down right this moment. I was going to move it down 2-3 holes(motor moving up) then re-adjust the jackplate from there. Guessing somewhere between 1-1/2"-2" is going to be my sweet spot for performance, but again, I can't get there without mounting further down on the transom bracket.

[BassinB]

The holes are there for a reason can't imagine it would matter..... Although I suppose now that I think about it, as long as the transom bracket isn't sticking above the jackplate it would probably be ok. If it is sticking above the jackplate, it is unsupported and that is probably bad.

[mactlman]

hope you are not using a fury prop!!

[bassfisher444]

Yes, mount it in the middle holes, and like said above don't use a Fury, Tritons run better with a Tempest.

[Zwc1192]

I ran a fury prop for all of 1 hour and dont understand the obsession with them. It wasn't fast and my boat felt like it was riding with the nose plowing down even when trimmed all the way out.

I keep a 26p Bravos XS on there as my stock prop. The lift is awesome. Feels like my boat is barely in the water. I mostly river fish and it does very well accelerating through the midrange and handling in and around all the corners I'm constantly going through.

I'm picking up a Croxtonized 26p Tempest plus this weekend that I'm going to attempt some speed runs with. Hoping it'll get into the 62-6300 rpm range and push the boat into the low 80s.

thanks for the feedback guys. I'll definitely move the transom bracket up a couple holes so I can get another 3/4"-1" on the motor height.

[XXXLTRP]

My experience has been different. My setup up is similar to yours and it performs better with a Fury and to me is easier to drive it than on a Tempest. It's at 1.5 below pad on a 26 Fury 3 blade. The motor is in the 3rd hole and a 10" set back hydro plate. The Pro XS won't turn 62/6300 like your XB so that's def a factor to consider.

I have no preference what prop is "the one" I like what the boat likes. I've done Fury 25,26,27, 2 different worked 26's, Tempest 25,26,27 and settled on an out of the box 3 blade Fury 26. The one I run is an older one that I came across NIB/NOS and its been great.

[Zwc1192]

That's very interesting, but as you mentioned, could have something to do with you not needing as much RPM. I can spin a 26p Fury to 58-5900 no problem, but it's no faster than a tempest or bravo on my boat. Acceleration is lesser. It doesnt hold up speed as well in corners. No real benefit for me.

Funny how all boats are different

You're a brave man running a fury that high. I've seen way too many of them missing a blade lol

[XXXLTRP]

I'd like to try some other props but they are expensive experiments, and I like the way it runs and drives on the Fury 26, the 27 is good too and in cooler temps I can not tell the difference. The 26 has pushed the boat the fastest, 81.2 on the GPS.

All boats are def different. Everything I read said to run it deeper, deeper caused much more chine walk and slowed it down. I did experience the odd pitched props ran better deeper, 2.5" range. When I moved the 25 and 27s up...slowed down 2-3 mph on the top end.

[fly by night]

Good luck with that Sir, not a fan of a 10" jackplate as it creates much more stress in that area.

[Zwc1192]

Logically, I'm sure they do cause a little more stress as the weight is further back, but there are a ton of people out there that run 10" jackplates on Earl Bentz Tritons with no issue.

I'm very capable of driving a high performance boat, but with the 6" plate and two people(tournament load) in the boat, the chine walk above 65mph was miserable. It took everything you had to keep the boat from constantly teeter tottering back and forth. It wasn't a dangerous or violent amount, it was just extremely annoying. I tried an absurd amount of jack plate heights, props, and rebalancing stuff in the boat to try to help. I eventually heeded some others advice and tried more setback.

with the 10" plate, the boat can be driven with 2 fingers at 75+mph. It only needs an occasional correction. It doesnt jump up on the pad as violently either. With the 6" plate, when you hit the pad in the 60s, it would almost snatch the wheel out your hand.

[mactlman]

Good luck with that Sir, not a fan of a 10" jackplate as it creates much more stress in that area.

10" standard on a ranger?

[bassfisher444]

Good luck with that Sir, not a fan of a 10" jackplate as it creates much more stress in that area.

Mine came factory with a 10" plate, no issues at all.