If you are interested here is a link to the video of me stomping Muscadines in a 45 Yeti. I do not do it in bare feet............
If you are interested here is a link to the video of me stomping Muscadines in a 45 Yeti. I do not do it in bare feet............
Well I dug thru old Bimini Top patterns I had saved to see if I couldn't just reuse one on this frame since it is narrower than other Biminis I made.
Patterning the Canvas 1.JPGPatterning the Canvas 2.JPGPatterning the Canvas 3.JPG
I did have a wider pattern that works but I needed to tape a small piece extra on one side as this pattern is a little lop-sided. Beginning with double stick Basting Tape I roll a strip over each Bow so I can just stick and adjust the pattern panels. Working the Aft Panel first I keep adjusting the material till it is smooth.
Patterning the Canvas 4.JPGPatterning the Canvas 5.JPGPatterning the Canvas 6.JPG
I measured down from the bends 8 inches and put a big dot on the frame. After tracing the top center of the middle bow all the way across I run another strip of double stick on the center bow but off aft of the line I just traced. Transferring the dots to the pattern allows me reference marks for trimming the sides of the pattern later. The aft bow was traced along the horizontal plane mid pipe all the way across too.
Patterning the Canvas 7.JPGPatterning the Canvas 8.JPGPatterning the Canvas 9.JPG
Now I can lay the forward panel pattern over the front bow working it aft securing it to the second piece of double stick behind the center bow line. We do this so I can trace the first center bow line onto the forward pattern panel. This gives a perfect pattern for this frame. After all wrinkles are worked on & tracing of the bows complete, the transferring of the 8 inch down dots is done, I give it a very hard look for any anomaly that would cause the new canvas not to fit properly. If nothing is found I remove the pattern which is what I did right after these pictures. This canvas will fit fantastic.
Had several tasks on tap for today and getting the Bimini Arch painted was one.
Bimini Arch Painting 1.JPGBimini Arch Painting 2.JPG
After washing the aluminum frame 3 times with a pre-cleaner to remove all the extrusion oil from the pipe I got to sanding.
Using a Snap-on 3in DA sander, a interface pad, & 180 grit paper I sanded all metal getting paint to apply a tooth to the substrate. Once it was sanded I moved it outside. After moving it I washed it 2 more times to be sure no oils or aluminum dust was left.
Bimini Arch Painting 3.JPGBimini Arch Painting 4.JPGBimini Arch Painting 5.JPG
To spray the PPG Refinish Epoxy & PPG Refinish Shop Line JAU Urethane I used a Harbor Freight Gravity Feed spray gun (El Cheap-o). I have used these purple guns for over 10 years and for spraying a Single Stage on boat parts it doesn't get any better.
Bimini Arch Painting 6.JPGBimini Arch Painting 7.JPGBimini Arch Painting 8.JPGBimini Arch Painting 9.JPG
I also need to be able to spray upside down so I'm using the 3-M PPS paint cup system. Not only is it disposable but the gun cleanup is a breeze. These paint cups need a special adapter to use them on your gun. You got to buy the correct one for each gun. Once I put the liner in the body in goes the paint, then the cap (which has a built in paint filter) which is locked on with the black ring. Then you invert your gun pressing the adapter on to the cup-cap, a 1/4 turn and its locked on. To get it to spray upside down you pull the trigger like you are trying to paint, all the air will be sucked out collapsing the cup. From then on it will spray in and position you put the gun in. When done, remove the liner & cap and let the paint harder inside. Once hardened you can throw the whole thing in the trash.
Bimini Arch Painting 11.JPGBimini Arch Painting 12.JPG
2 coats of Epoxy top coated with 2 coats JAU Urethane and I'm done.
Well among other tasks, like usual I have 5 things a day going. First off was replacing the wheel bearings in my Tin Boat Trailer. We've all done that so I didn't take pictures.
Installing Bimini Arch 1.JPGInstalling Bimini Arch 2.JPG
First things first, silicone bedding was used to grout the 2 bases of the Arch to the Cap of the boat. I realized I can reach about 1/2 way from the inside to thru screw/bolt the mounting hardware on the Shear. It would rip the fiberglass before it came off if I do that. Still mulling it over. Do I really want to tear the boat cap up over a arch that I can make another?
Installing Bimini Arch 3.JPGInstalling Bimini Arch 4.JPG
I put enough silicone that it oozed out just like I wanted to see it do. I know the Bases are fully Bedded to the Cap. Of course I cleaned up the excess, what a messy task. No pictures because I had silicone up to my elbows.
Installing Bimini Arch 5.JPG
Once attached I unmask the hinge areas before taking a last picture. After the bedding compound is fully cured I will finish fastening the Bases to the cap. I'm shopping the fabric now it will be Stamoid Lite in white with a Lime Green polyester protective boot. The grees should Pop against the Black paint.
Pretty slick Mister........ Nice.
Thank you Sir. The way I designed this I can fold it forward for trailering, fold it back just to get it out of the way, remove it completely if not needed, and of course deploy the top if desired. The gap of time between posting the first mention of adding a Arch Bimini and the beginning of fabrication was a designer's block. I wanted my cake and eat it too so to speak. I didn't lean the Arch risers inward because I really built it for function. Had I tilted the risers inward aesthetics would be better from the bow or stern. I needed function first.Originally Posted by paulrodbender
Pretty slick Mister........ Nice.
Well after the Panoptix transducers failing constantly on my other boats I decided to take the 2D Pole and Install a Livescope transducer on it.
Livescope Install 1.JPG
The handle is adjustable. I had so many Panoptix LVS22TR transducers fail numerous mounts were laying around so I cut a short section of 7/8 inch aluminum Bimini Top Bow material. Added some foam to dress up the handle a bit. Bought a 6mmx100 long bolt and SS fender washer to attach the tubing handle to the old Panoptix mount. I has a 6mmx100 threaded insert.
Livescope Install 2.JPG
Using the RAM mount short arm between the 2 balls it stows nicely being held in the back by a push pole holder I had laying around the shop.
Livescope Install 3.JPG
The Pole Cat Pole Push Holder works perfect.
Livescope Install 4.JPG
The Bow power distribution and NEMA 2000 Backbone are right in the forward port compartment so I installed the GLS10 box there too.
Livescope Install 5.JPG
I have been wearing out the Crappie here, a couple of pictures after dirtying up the boat with fish slime.
Crappie Catchin Yesterday.JPGCrappie Catchin Today.JPG
Congratulations and continued admiration for your skills and abilities.
Amazing work and thanks for sharing.
Thank you Mr Charles. Doing repairs from the tornado earlier this year right now. We are running the roofing metal tomorrow. I'm making a 22ft by 45ft covered parking area right now. Replacing the covered parking where I parked my projects when not working on them. It has been too hot all summer to build this kind of stuff by myself. Here is a picture of where I'm at now.
Progress 1.JPGProgress 2.JPGProgress 3.JPGProgress 4.JPG
For those interested in another project like this we had a direct hit from a Tornado April 10th of this year. One of the painful damages is a tree was dropped on my favorite truck. Now the task is to restore it like new. Below is the link to that project. I will be sewing the canvas for the Bimini Arch for the Blazer soon, I just had too many other things that needed attention first.
https://www.crappie.com/crappie/rojo...n/#post4478354
Well changes are coming. The Yamaha 115 is just too heavy for the short, skinny hull. Cross Flow's @ 320#'s was the max I ever got to run right. No Hydraulic Jackplate with those either, 5 inch manual Jackplates due to weight. I'm already running the cranking battery in the bow and the two trolling motor batteries in the forward floor hatch. The other Blazer VL100 I have the Cranking & Electronics batteries are in the back and the the 2 PC925 Odyssey batteries (44#'s total) are in the rod locker as far back as they can be mounted. As soon as I can get the citrus trees out of my shop (freeze threat over) engine swapping and rigging swapping will be happening. I expect to have 3 boats to re-rig simultaneously, y'all invest in Advil Company stock because headaches will be on the way.
If you were closer to Jackson I would swing by and help when I'm working down that way.
That would be fun, member P-nut will be around I'm sure to give a hand. He doesn't post a lot but is very good help when you need a hand. I have 3 lifts so musical engines is a song I can play. I did pull the trees out of the shop today but we have a forecast of frigid cold within a week here. Can't do anything with all the trees in the way. I fixed the 26x40 greenhouse to keep the trees outside this winter but the April 10th tornado changed my plans crushing the greenhouse.
Well I have some changes happening here so to get ahead of the work I'm getting started swapping engines around. This boat build has a very heavy weight to Horsepower ratio powerplant. The narrow Beam of the hull and short length has the boat pushing a wedge thru the water. Thinking this is why it wants to chinewalk so bad the swap is happening. It may handle better with the 115 60 degree Evinrude @ 320#'s I have here but I'm going to drop the Yamaha 90HP 2 Stroke on it instead. This is taking a 358 pound engine off and putting a 239 pound engine on. This boat is going back to Ross Barnett for now.
Musical Engines 1.JPGMusical Engines 2.JPG
After moving all the citrus trees out of the shop I moved all 3 boats into position for engine swapping.
Musical Engines 3.JPGMusical Engines 4.JPGMusical Engines 5.JPG
The Hydraulic Steering is staying with this boat so it had to be dropped first. The grease fitting had to be removed for the ground strap to be removed then the Ram could be unbolted and laid in the Splash Well.
Musical Engines 6.JPG
Now I just disconnected the Yamaha 115 and am letting it hang here for now. With the entire Truck Interior already in this stall it's getting crowded.
Musical Engines 7.JPG
Turning my attention to my Skeeter I disconnected and unbolted the Yamaha C90TLR and let it hang off this other lift.
Musical Engines 8.JPGMusical Engines 9.JPG
Once the 90HP is free I used the Bobcat to move the boats around once again so all 3 are in this building.
Musical Engines 10.JPG
My old Blazer VL100 is on the left. It is the boat I kept on Ross Barnett. It's getting a Fire Sale. I replaced the Transom, Aft Casting Deck, & Bow Casting Deck with Coosa 26, added fiberglass to the entire Cockpit floor, rewired, added a custom Windshield, fabricated Raised Seat Mount Bases, sealed the Rubrail, etc, lots of stuff over the years and it has been garage kept ever since unless in use. Does not leak a drop of water, never have to pull the plug.
Musical Engines 11.JPGMusical Engines 12.JPG
Back to the Blazer VL100 build boat after bolting the C90TLR engine on I rig a battery to the engine to tilt it up so I can move it back to the other stall for final rigging.
Like the Energizer Bunny work continues here. Swapping the Hydraulic Steering from my old Blazer VL100 to the Skeeter dealing with existing holes in the console prevented a accurate layout for mounting the Seastar Helm Pump. A pattern was needed to control the Holesaw from walking across the gelcoat as well as new mounting holes were needed very close to the edge of the existing center hole.
Making a Helm Template 1.JPG
Using a piece of drop 3/16 aluminum sheet, a Dometic / Seastar mounting pattern, some blue tape, and a center punch I first laid out where the new hole centers would be located on the aluminum.
Making a Helm Template 2.JPG
I have the aluminum tightly clamped onto the drilling deck of my drill press. Aluminum cutting wax stick is used to lubricate the holesaw and slow speeds to reduce the chatter & sticking of the holesaw to the aluminum.
Making a Helm Template 3.JPG
Now that the center 3in hole is cut I center a 5/16th bit on the stud mounting holes and drill those holes. Once that is done the aluminum is cut to square up the sides with the Helm so no matter how this new tool is used as long as one of the sides is level the Helm Pump will be level with the fill hole on top.
Making a Helm Template 4.JPG
Now I'm left with a bunch of sharp edges & burrs. If I leave those and clamp the new template tool on to the gelcoat permanent damage will occur.
Making a Helm Template 5.JPGMaking a Helm Template 7.JPG
Using a "Surfacing Pad" on a air die grinder I polish every edge & burr smooth beveling the outer edges so no hard edge will come in contact with the gelcoat.
Making a Helm Template 8.JPGMaking a Helm Template 9.JPG
After centering the new center hole as best a possible allowing the same amount of stud mounting hole material all around I clamp the template tool to drill the first hole. As soon as the first hole is drilled I put a bolt securing the template then drill a opposing hole and bolt it. Now after that I can drill both the remaining holes. I used 3/16th thick aluminum so it would serve as a drilling guide for the holesaw & drill bit too.
Making a Helm Template 10.JPG
The aluminum template is controlling the holesaw perfectly.
Making a Helm Template 11.JPG
A bit of work in upfront fabrication but a template tool for perfectly fitting a Seastar helm to this Skeeter is fabricated. It will be useful as well for the numerous future Hydraulic Steering Installs that I will do. Makes the drilling a breeze.
Wow, thanks again for sharing.
You are like the Energizer Bunny, Tony Stark, Albert Einstein, and the greatest fabricator rolled together.
Privilege to read your posts and admire your work.
Best Wishes
Thank you Mr. Charles, I'm almost finished hooking up the Etec on the Skeeter. I expect to finish it today. The Blazer engine I mounted on the back I bought out of Bell River, LA years ago. It had one speck of corrosion in the Head water jacket when I tore it down. The cylinders only needed .010 boring & honing to bring back to perfect. I went completely thru the Hydraulic T&T Unit, replaced the bearings & seals in the Foot, painted all parts with a 2K Urethane before reassembly, was super careful to put a dynamite tune on the engine and was able to break it in before the Stator failed. A obsolete part that at the time used cost a small fortune so I removed it from my other Blazer VL100 to pickled it and bought the Etec. I've since fixed 2 stroke 90 Yamaha and had it on the Skeeter. The 115 Yamaha was just too heavy for the narrow Blazer and I probably aggravated the issue by lightening the rest of the hull up. Not enough weight forward even with the starting battery in the bow. The trailer had no tongue weight at all before I moved the cranking battery forward and added a spare tire to the front of it. I'm expecting the be able to get quite a bit shallower with the Blazer now, sneaking behind some of the shallow areas inaccessible before to deep holes that hold winter Crappie.
Last edited by rojoguio; 01-24-2025 at 05:38 PM.
You have "Quite" the story !! I've followed your posts about your truck repair too on another site !! I don't know how you manage to have the time to "work" too !! Good luck with the rest of the adventure !!!
Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
Garmin / Live Scope Plus
Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
Vatrer Lithium / V-T2 Vents
I just figured out while being locked up inside the shop during this Deep Freeze I can cut the A-Pillars 6in below the top of the windshield, cut the B-Pillars 8 inches from the Drip Rail, and just cut the C-Pillars off as I have to replace the entire back of the Cab. What this does is give me 4 solid places to weld the replacement roof section you see posted with the truck and "Float" the C-Pillar back Cab section and work back to a solid, in alignment place. As soon as I can get my citrus trees back out of the shop I will be removing the windshield to break out the saws. Thanks for the comments, always like to know the posts are good.
Since this thread is used as a "How To" reference for numerous DIY visitors I'm posting this here. This ChampioN has had numerous trolling motors thru the years and several had different mounting bolt patterns. I am installing a Minn-Kota Saltwater Maxium trolling motor & a Humminbird Helix 10 Mega with the Humminbird Mega Live Sonar transducer on the trolling motor shaft to clean up the front deck.
Repair Trolling Motor Holes 1.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 2.JPG
First off is to clean every bit of silicone from the deck & mounting holes. It takes a while. I used the adhesive remover and wax & grease remover to assist.
Repair Trolling Motor Holes 3.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 4.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 5.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 6.JPG
After the holes are clean I use a Step-Bit to further remove any contaminated wood any apply a taper to the hole. The taper gives more surface area for the epoxy to stick and just makes a better, stronger repair.
Repair Trolling Motor Holes 7.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 8.JPG
Using hardwood dowels the right size I cut shallow plugs on the miter & bandsaws first.
Repair Trolling Motor Holes 9.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 10.JPG
Once the plugs are cut I mix the epoxy. Using a Q-Tip I first completely wet out all the holes top to bottom so the epoxy gets a very good bite. No Filler is used yet, just straight epoxy.
Repair Trolling Motor Holes 11.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 12.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 13.JPGRepair Trolling Motor Holes 14.JPG
Using micro needle-nose pliers I first dip the plugs in epoxy then place in the holes flat. Then with the punch and hammer I tap the plugs to the bottom of the holes.
Continued on next post.
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