Put charger in a suitcase or backpack. Haul it in and out of the truck when needed.use wing nuts to connect.
Sounds like you want to undo evolution. Some think the old ways are best.
To each his own.......
Put charger in a suitcase or backpack. Haul it in and out of the truck when needed.use wing nuts to connect.
Sounds like you want to undo evolution. Some think the old ways are best.
To each his own.......
**
Life is kinda hard but it's
better than the other options .. er ..option !
Old thread but i want to do the same thing with a 345 PCL charger , ways of doing this with pig tails ?
I had to remove a battery charger from my very small battery compartment to give me more room for a bigger battery. I mounted my MK charger on a piece of plywood with a handle and made battery to charger connections with SS wingnuts, I left the charger leads intact. Boat sits in the garage, and only takes a 1-2 minutes to connect/disconnect. My 12 year old charger should last quite a few more years not taking a beating in the boat. I feel this is the easiest and simpler way and it works for me.
I have the quick connectors attached to my Die Hard 2 amp portable chargers/maintainers for my motorcycles but not sure about your application.
Couple of ways to accomplish what you want. I'm in the process of implementing an 8 pin quick disconnect solution. I too was going to cut the leads to get them to a manageable length. My charger is a NOCO GenPro 10x4. In the end, because of the temp sensor or load sensing chip or... whatever, I decided to not cut the leads. So now what to do with, basically, 24 feet of charger leads. This was my solution:
As stated this is an ongoing process. I ordered an 8 pin Deutsch bulkhead connector which I'll start wiring up when my tinned copper 12 ga. cable gets here - if it does. Gotta love USPS.
This is the 8 pin connector complete without any pins or wires going to it. The orange back of the plug is the female connector that will be attached to the charger. The male portion of the plug will remain hardwired to the boat.
The male side of the connector w/o the female connected looks like this. Again, without wiring and connector pins. I did get the protective waterproof cap for the boat mounted portion of the plug.
The plug, sans any wiring or connector pins, looks like this.
Prior to this implementation I was using 2-pin marine quick disconnects. Just got tired of managing all the plugs and connectors.
Just a side note: I will end up cutting the charger leads behind the fuses so I can relocate the fuses within 7" of the battery. This will, would have, voided the warranty as NOCO told me I can only add length and only on the ring terminal side of the fuses.
Last edited by yupitsme; 05-19-2024 at 07:19 AM.
Rad Brewer
I bought these off of ebay. I cut 1 end off and attached ring terminals that I attached to the charger and another to the battery end. I connect when I am about to charge the batteries and disconnect after they have been charged. The charger can discharge the batteries in time. And this way the trolling batteries will never be connected to the cranking battery so there isn't a chance of interference. Takes a couple of minutes, but very inexpensive insurance that I feel works for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193377680543
I just made a wire harness for two lithium TM batteries and the starter battery in the boat connected to a trailer 7-way female socket.
The factory Minnkota charger ring terminals are screwed to a buss-block, with another short harness from the buss-block to a trailer 7-way male plug.
The charger fits in a small portable tote, so it isn't attached to the boat.
But the new lithiums are so light, they affect the hulls performance. I'm thinking I may end up mounting the charger back in the boat to gain some weight back - and I'll need to shift some other gear towards that rear corner also.
Mikexpress had a thread on this and I followed his suggestion. Basically it was a bundled wire of eight (8) 16g wires and using a 9 pin trailer connector. This way I was able to hang my charger on the shed wall and just plug it in to the female connector.
2019 RT 198P
2018 Mercury Pro XS 150 HP 4 Stroke #2B610068
Twin 12' BT Talons
4" Atlas Jack Plate
Riptide Instinct Quest
Definitely an old thread but hopefully you get some ideas. I have a dedicated battery for my livescope. The charger is not waterproof and is not recommended to be mounted in the boat, hence why I have it on quick connect/disconnect Anderson connectors. If your familiar with battery power forklifts or other industrial type battery power items then you have probably seen a Anderson battery connector. Here is my set up....Originally Posted by Voyageur23
This picture only shows the battery side. I have the same connector on the battery charger. Google search Anderson battery connector and you should get several options.
I had one just like the red one shown on a winch connection and it worked very well with no problems.Definitely an old thread but hopefully you get some ideas. I have a dedicated battery for my livescope. The charger is not waterproof and is not recommended to be mounted in the boat, there I have it on quick connect/disconnect Anderson connectors. If your familiar with battery power forklifts or other industrial type battery power items then you have probably seen a Anderson battery connector. Here is my set up....
This picture only shows the battery side. I have the same connector on the battery charger.
Here is what I used for my lithium battery powering LS and Graphs and my 36V trolling motor. They are called Anderson Connectors and are available at auto shops, Bass Pro, just about everywhere. They only connect one way and have rubber booties to keep gunk out. I got mine here (but I work at that company so a shameless plug): 84-9482 - Plug-In Style Battery Cable Connectors, Plug-In End (grote.com)
I used a trailer plug and good marine wire. Will get pictures later.
Twice I've done this utilizing Pollak 6 pin trailer connectors. On my current Tracker and also on my previous 05' 519VX. Both with Dual Pro3 chargers w/lithium profiles. (prefer tranformers over switching power supplies.)
The Pollak connectors are rated for 35A which is more than enough for a charger. Mount the charger in a toolbox, mount the 'vehicle' side connector in boat with permanent wired extension leads, cut off fuses and terminals and wire 'trailer' side to charger.
Bring toolbox to boat, plug in trailer plug and connect to 120V in that order. Easy peasy and done.
Super clean and effective.
Mike
2019 Ranger 520L w/ 250HO ETEC G2
2011 Tracker 175TXW w/ 75HO ETEC
I took mine out and will never have one in the boat again. Its unnecessary. IMO
This type works fine. Anderson makes some also and you can also use Pro Control trolling motor quick connectors. I've had the ones below on 3 chargers and never had an issue. Harbor Freight sells a Pelican type box that I use to carry mine around in, it's bolted to the box.
Those are great, small and simple!This type works fine. Anderson makes some also and you can also use Pro Control trolling motor quick connectors. I've had the ones below on 3 chargers and never had an issue. Harbor Freight sells a Pelican type box that I use to carry mine around in, it's bolted to the box.
My 4 bank is mounted up under the console on my Lund with a Marinco power plug on the face to plug the power cord in. You can still see the status lights on the charger and it stay's dry.
9 pin trailer connector is the way to go. I bought a Reese male 9 pin with a spring loaded close flap. Water can’t get in it. Added enough cord length to extend to 12 ft or so. It takes a little time, but one plug in and done
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