Gas smell in Rod Locker Fix

[Wheels]

Long story short, it's fixed and here's the Readers Digest version.
You'll need a can of Great Stuff expanding foam (available at Lowes), a can of 3M General Trim Adhesive (Oreilly's), a Stanley Surform http://www.stanleytools.com/de...haver
A good filet knife to trim off excessive foam and about an afternoon.
Remove the rod holder in the passenger side locker and then peel back the carpet in each rod locker to expose the back of the rod locker close out (this photo shows the after shot of the foam shaved down and ready to go back together)


On the passenger side, makes sure you stow the light wires out of the way or they'll get trapped in the foam (like mine did). Start off at the bottom and slowly work you way up building a foam wall in the gap between the close out and outboard side wall. Dont press the foam spray nozzle to hard, kinda feather it out of the can slowly while working your way up. Dont worry about any foam that may get on the carpet and dont try to clean it up until after it cures. When it is cured it will lift right up. Let the foam cure over night and dont worry about how much it expands.
Once the foam has cured, take a good sharp knife and start cutting away the excess working your way back to the close out panel. Dont take too much off.
Once you get it close enough to the close out panel, use the Surform to work it the rest of the way until it is just about even with the close out panel. Also any foam that may be in the carpet, use the Surform to break it loose.
Here's a shot of the back side of the passenger rod locker with the passenger rod butt holder removed


And a shot of the work in progress working the foam down with the Surform


I used a shop vac to clean up all the loose foam in each locker and then shot the close out panel and new foam with the 3M General Trim Adhesive and stuck the carpet back in place.
One other thing I did was place a set of T&H Marine (P/N FD-2) drain covers after using a 2.5" hole saw to cut the opening to provide a vent for the fumes forward of the factory vents. They were like $3 or $4 at the local dealer
http://www.thmarine.com/product.cfm?PRID=63
Drivers side


Passenger side


I installed these because the factory vents do not provide adequate ventalation as installed. The carpet blocks any path that the fumes may have (this photo is of the vent area with the seat plane and vent removed, the carpet goes down and under the tank about 6 to 8 inches)

[Jiggernaut]

Larry, that is an ingenious and I bet, really effective fix. You're a lot smarter than you look.

(I hope you don't mind if I sticky this.)

[Mike Daleo]

Nice job, I think I will give it a try, thanks!

[rudapa]

Larry, thanks for the comprehensive explanation and pictures.

[Mark Weare]

Great job.

What did you do about the top cap/gunnel area? On my boat that whole area is open from bow to stern and open to both rod lockers. If I spray that shut then running wires will be negated.

[Bass Pro Shopper]

This is a great idea and job. I was actually thinking of doing something similar (will silicone sealer work?), as well as cutting out a couple holes under the consoles and putting vent covers over them like Wheels did.

However, I am wondering this about sealing the lockers in this way: the bottom corners of the lockers seem to have a drainage port (I assume) to let any water run into the bilge from rain seeping in, or say you spike a wave. If you fill that in with foam, won't you block any drainage? If you leave that portion open, I would think gas fumes would still get in. Plus, what about the front ends of the lockers? Aren't they open to the fumes of the bilge as well? Can't tell in this boat because of rod tubes, but they were open in my Champ.

As for the factory vents under the seats, I believe they (factory or dealer) are supposed to cut out small squares out of the seat plane and the floor just under the vent panel area to help with venting (delicate job since there's not much room to do so because of the tank). At least that's what my dealer said was to be done when we were discussing adding the vent panels.

[gambler4]

did you not seal the top of the side walls ? i used a large chunk of soft foam rubber
shaped it somewhat with a knife and used the expando foam to seal it in place if i need to acces any wires i just shove it out and start over i like the floor vents

[Parsticks]

Larry that's a great idea. Not much cash and a clean good looking job.
Thanks for the detailed post.

[Garfish]

Larry, in the photo with the screw driver on the floor pointing to a "vent" aren't these vents actually the floor drains? If they aren't then they forgot my floor drains. It is a slow process when it rains for water to get to the bilge and auto pump. I have actually thought of installing a couple of floor drains...do you have any idea where it would be safe to do this?.....................G

[Wheels]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mark Weare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great job.

What did you do about the top cap/gunnel area? On my boat that whole area is open from bow to stern and open to both rod lockers. If I spray that shut then running wires will be negated.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I left them open, gas fumes are heavier than air (thats why we have to have gas fired water heaters on an 18" pedestal in garages). I dont believe that the fumes get that high if the vents are added properly. One other option is to cut a 12 inch lenght of 1" PVC and duct tape it in place prior to shooting the foam towards the top cap area. This will give you a wire chase to feed wire through at a later date if needed.

[Stroker3.2XS]

I really like the additional vent idea, just can't imagine drilling a two 2.5 inch holes in the boat. Damn near took me a hour to drill for the RAM mount

[Wheels]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bass Pro Shopper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
However, I am wondering this about sealing the lockers in this way: the bottom corners of the lockers seem to have a drainage port (I assume) to let any water run into the bilge from rain seeping in, or say you spike a wave. If you fill that in with foam, won't you block any drainage? If you leave that portion open, I would think gas fumes would still get in. Plus, what about the front ends of the lockers? Aren't they open to the fumes of the bilge as well? Can't tell in this boat because of rod tubes, but they were open in my Champ.

As for the factory vents under the seats, I believe they (factory or dealer) are supposed to cut out small squares out of the seat plane and the floor just under the vent panel area to help with venting (delicate job since there's not much room to do so because of the tank). At least that's what my dealer said was to be done when we were discussing adding the vent panels. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I got caught in a bad rain storm at Texoma a few years back and had water in both lockers. The water entered in through the Perko latch key hole. Although the rubber washer on the back of the handle is supposed to prevent this, once the latches filled up with water it seeped in under the washers. Didnt think that the lockers were wet until the next weekend I opened them and found corrosion on two of my Curados and mildew starting to grow. If they get wet, I would suggest you open them and use a wet/dry vac to get the water out as soon as you can. I wondered about the water having an escape route, but decided that if I get rained on or spear a wave (hasnt happened yet in my 21X) I would just get the vac out and clean them out.

Here's the cutout on mine as you described


The problem is still the carpet that rolls down under the gas tank. It seems to prevent any fumes from coming up and getting trough the vents. The gas fumes are heavier than air. The tank in a 21X is made by Moeller (part number FT-5416)
I removed the tank completely and did a pressure test on it to see if there were any leaks (Warning do not exceed 3 psi when doing the pressure test) and did not find any leaks anywhere on the tank. Here's Moellers care and feeding instructions for their tanks
http://www.moellermarine.com/s...L.pdf

[Wheels]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garfish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Larry, in the photo with the screw driver on the floor pointing to a "vent" aren't these vents actually the floor drains? If they aren't then they forgot my floor drains. It is a slow process when it rains for water to get to the bilge and auto pump. I have actually thought of installing a couple of floor drains...do you have any idea where it would be safe to do this?.....................G</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish I took a photo of the after on this but that area is notched out (molded in) and I cut the carpet out of that area following the notched area. I cut it all the way under the fuel tank and water now actually flows out of the area quicker than before. When I had the tank out, I looked back up under the floor and it is sprayed with foam. Cutting a drain hole in the floor may compromise the floor structure and you have to get the foam out of the way to effect the drain.

[Bassin08]

I have a really bad gas odor in all of my storage compartments (08 TR176). I called my dealer today and he told me I was the first one to have this problem that he knows of. He gave me the name and number of a guy at Triton to call. I'm going to call him Monday to see what the problem is. I don't have any gas in my beilge area and the carpet is not wet. I have to keep washing any clothing that I keep in my boat and both of my rod lockers stink after gas.

I am not good at these types of repairs, so I will either have to have Triton, or my dealer repair the problem. Why don't they just vent these boats like the older ones we had in past years? I've had several Rangers and Champions and never had this problem.

Now I know why I'm not catching fish like I used to, the gas smell on my lures and line is scaring them away.

[Bass Counselor]

I spoke with a friend tonight who has a new 20X2 and the gas fumes are unbearable. His dealer would not help him. Triton's remedy is saw into the boat and replace the tank. Who would want to spend over 50K on a boat and have this done to it? Makes me leary of buying a Triton!

[Bassin08]

I talked to Steve from Triton yesterday. He told me to be sure that the vents in front of the seats are not blocked with carpet. He said that sometimes the workers don't cut the carpet our like they should.

He also told me to look at the gas connections behind the inspection plate to be sure they are tight.............What!

I told him that I'm not very mechanically inclined and that the dealer will have to do all of this. He said they would cover the cost.

2008 boat with this stinky smell, I think it stinks. I can't even carry extra clothes in my storage boxes. Why don't they just use the good old fashioned chrome vents like the older boats had. I see Bass Cat stills has them on their boats. Maybe I need to sell this Triton and buy a Bass Cat!

[waynesyn]

I have the same gas smell in my lockers on my 190FS. Strong gas smell everytime I open a locker.
WS

[Bassin08]

I did cut the carpet out of the floor drains and it is a little better. I have been storing my boat in the garage with the rear lid open, which I'm sure helps some. My dealer told me Saturday that he will add a couple of vents under the front of the seats. I just hate to have holes cut in my boat that were not designed to be there. Why can't Triton fix this problem before the boat leaves the factory? This is not something that just started in 2008!

[rudapa]

Also leave the rod compartments open while it is in the garage. The would a, could a, should a, is really not going to get rid of the smell at this point. Adding the vents should do it - thumbs up to your dealer for repairing something Triton should have "designed" away for all of us years ago. They have been consistent with blaming this problem on plastic tank permeation. Well other makes deal with it and Triton has not done so in an effective way.

[TopgunZ521C]

Thanks for the advise on the gas smell. I have a 2002 tr-21 (awsome rig) and read your post on the gas smell and thought what the heck got nothing to lose at this point. Performed the same task except I went a little further abd filled mine much thicker with insulation from locker side as well as console side. When the insulation was cured and shaped I bought a couple of cans of sound insulating rubber coating for stereo systems and sealed all the area and it really made a clean finish as well as helps seal tight the area treated. I also installed two extra vents between the seats where the triton boats placard is located along with the two on the inner walls of console area and the smell is gone. Thank you for the post and if any of you guys have this problem spend the time to perform this simple task and you will be happy. Tritons are awsome boats and this was my only issue with boat and now its fixed guess Ill be happy for years to come with a rig like this one no cracks or problems,fast enough for me and a great fishing platform. (We grow em big on the west coast) tight lines to all.